Beiderwand Cover Letter

Weavers Ratings Program

The Weaving Ratings Program is designed to encourage members to increase their knowledge of weaving as well as to show proficiency in basic, intermediate and advanced techniques.  The program provides members with a structured study guide and sets standards for measuring progress as weaver and craftsman.

The Program consists of three levels: Apprentice, Journeyman, and Master. Successful evaluation of the prior level is required before applying for the next level. Work submitted for one level may not be submitted for the next level.

All work submitted must be done independently, and not under any kind of supervision such as in workshops, classes, or study groups.

Reviewers who evaluate the work submitted are selected by the Weaving Ratings Committee with the approval of the Board of Weavers Guild of Greater Baltimore.  The Ratings Chair is responsible for making sure that items submitted meet the stated specifications, that they are correctly labeled, and that they are forwarded to the reviewer(s).    

Eligibility Requirements
Members who desire to participate in the Weaving Ratings Program must notify the Weaving Ratings Chairman, in writing (e-mail or postal mail) no later than the February WGGB meeting for submission of work in March. 

A non-refundable application fee of $30 for each rating level is due upon submission of work.

An applicant, whose work is scored below points needed to pass may reapply the following year. A new application and application fee is required.

Evaluation Guidelines
Reviewer(s) will be looking at the following:
               Mastery of technique
               Suitability of fiber to the technique  
               Good design
               Effective use of color
               Even beating
               Even selvages
               Skill in finishing
               Intended use of fabric
               Specified minimum size       
               Complete notes and drafts

General Information—Presentation of Written Work and Woven Items

  1. Each candidate will be given an identification number.  This number and the requirement letter and/or number are to be written on the top right hand side of all written materials.  No name is to appear on any written work or woven item. 
  2. One folder should contain a table of contents of all written work and a listing of folders containing woven items.  Each item listed should be accompanied by the requirement letter and/or number.   Explain draft conventions and state the type(s) of loom(s) being used.  All written work must be ink unless otherwise specified.  Word processing is encouraged. 
  3. Record Sheets required for written work and woven items will be provided by the chairman.  Weaving software may be used unless otherwise noted.  The Record Sheet format must be followed when using software.  The requirement description for each woven item or written work submitted must be on the record sheet.
  4. Each woven item and corresponding record sheet(s) should be put in a separate file folder.  
  5. Each folder should be labeled both on the tab and the outside upper right corner with applicant number and item number and letter.  The draft should be attached on the inside left and additional sheets attached on the right.  Place sample inside folder.
  6. All resources should be properly documented.  References should show complete information:  publication date, publisher, ISBN (if available).
  7. Note the pattern source on the record sheet. 
  8. Present material in a box suitable for mailing.

Additional Specifics for Woven Items

  1. All woven samples must be at least 7” x 11” unless otherwise specified, and must be properly finished. Larger samples are acceptable if two selvages are visible. Measurement must not include fringe.
  2. All visible stitching must be done by hand. 
  3. There must be no knots in either warp or weft. 
  4. Pillows are to be left unstuffed; zippers are not required.
  5. Wall hangings must include their hanging devices.

Apprentice Weaver Requirements

In addition to the written work, 18 woven samples are required.  Weaving software may be used except for 3a, 4d, and 6b.

Written Work

A-1 Equipment
A-1.a. Describe briefly the function of the following parts of a floor loom:  warp beam, cloth beam, breast beam, back beam, shafts, heddles, treadles, tie-up, beater, reed, and brake.
A-1.b. Describe each of the following types of shedding mechanisms: rising shed, counterbalance, and countermarch.       

A-2.a. Describe the two classes of natural fibers
A-2.b. Name and describe the characteristics and uses of three natural fibers for each of the two classes in A2.a.

A-3 Weave Structures
A-3.a. Using pen and graph paper, make a draw-down of each of the following: plain weave, twill, and two structural variations or derivatives of each, other than color and weave.
A-3.b. Describe a procedure for determining the approximate sett for balanced plain weave and for balanced twill.

A-4 Color and Design
A-4.a. Color Wheel: Create a 12 hue color wheel using yarn or fabric using the red, yellow, blue color system.
A-4.b. Explain why knowing about the color wheel is helpful in weaving, and how you would use a color wheel in your work.
A-4.c. Define the following:  hue, value, chroma, primary color, secondary color, and tertiary color.
A-4.d. Create a draft using 2 hues other than black and white.  Show the hues in both the threading and treadling.  Do not use weaving software.

A-5 Project Planning
Determine the total weight of yarn required to weave 2 yards of 2/2 twill fabric, with sett of 15 epi, using a yarn that measures 2100 yds./lb.  The finished fabric should measure 36” wide.  Assume 15% shrinkage.  Show how you arrived at the weight of the yarn needed.

Woven Items
See General Information—Presentation of Written Work and Woven Items, above, for additional specifications. Include a completed record sheet with each sample.

A-6 Handwoven Samples or Handwoven Articles
Create items that meet the requirements listed below.
A-6.a. Cotton warp threaded as overshot; pattern weft may be wool. Draft must be hand-drawn.
A-6.b. Linen warp and weft threaded in your choice of pattern.
A-6.c. Warp and weft of any fiber using color as the primary design element.
A-6.d. Warp and weft of any fiber in which structure is the primary design element.

A-7 Handwoven and Finished Woolen Samples:
Using a woolen yarn that measures approximately 2000 yards/lb, prepare a 12 inch wide warp, with sett of 8 epi. Be sure to have sufficient length to weave the following 12 samples. Threading is a straight draw.  One of each pair will remain unwashed.  Finish remaining samples by washing in warm water with mild soap.  Agitate gently.  Line dry and press.  Compare and comment on differences between washed and unwashed samples as well as the changes in sett.  Also, include your comments on the samples in relationship to possible uses.
A-7.a. Weave 2 samples of 6 inches plain weave and 2 samples of 6 inches twill.
A-7.b. Resley to 12 epi, weave 2 samples of 6 inches plain weave and 2 samples of 6 inches twill.
A-7.c. Resley to 16 epi, weave 2 samples of 6 inches plain weave and 2 samples of 6 inches twill.
A-8 Balanced Plain Weave
Submit a 1 yard length of a balanced plain weave in the fiber and width of your choice. Focus on even beating, even selvages and proper finishing. Include a complete record sheet.


Journeyman Weaver Requirements

Written Work

J-1 Name and describe 3 basic classes of weaves.

J-2 Name and describe 4 different block weave structures.

J-3 Draw a profile draft for 8 shafts. Develop into a long threading draft.

J-4 Present a short explanation of the following color harmonies: monochromatic, analogous, complementary, split complementary and triad.

J-5 Name and describe at least 5 different basic elements of design.

Woven Items
See General Information—Presentation of Written Work and Woven Items, above, for additional specifications
Any sample or article in this section may be submitted under more than one requirement number if it satisfies all specifications. Each requirement must have its own record sheet and the record sheet and the inventory must clearly state which requirements are being satisfied. (Example: J-6 could also satisfy J-9.c)

J-6 Submit a 2 yard length of wool fabric with a finished width of 24” to 28”.

J-7 Submit a pair of identical linen articles with a minimum size of 12”x12”.

J-8 Design and weave one article with a loom-controlled pattern border, using the same pattern on all four sides.

J-9 Submit one item in each of any 9 of the following weave structures. All items may be woven on 4 or more shafts.
J-9.a. Warp faced - no weft showing
J-9.b. Weft faced - no warp showing
J-9.c. Point twill or extended point twill
J-9.d.Bronson-lace or spot Bronson
J-9.e.Summer and Winter
J-9.f. Crackle
J-9.g. Honeycomb
J-9.h. Overshot
J-9.i.M’s and O’s
J-9.j. Shadow
J-9.k. Damask or false damask
J-9.l. Huck or huck lace
J-9.m. Beiderwand
J-9.n.Hand manipulated lace weaves (include at least 2)
J-9.o. Embroidery weaves such as laid in, brocade, loopweave (include at least 2).

Master Weaver Requirements

Written Work

M-1 Describe inkle weaving, card weaving, sprang, twining, netting and plaiting.

M-2 Select a well-known weaver and describe his/her work and the significance of his/her contribution to the craft of handweaving.

M-3 Analyze a piece of commercial fabric selected by the Ratings Program Chairman.  Make a draw-down showing threading, treadling and tie-up.

M-4Color Interaction
Using any medium, give examples of how colors affect each other.
M-4.a. Value Change: Take 2 squares having a medium value and identical hue.  Place one square on a very light value background and the other square on a very dark value background.  Compare and explain what happens visually to the identical squares against the different backgrounds.
M-4.b. Take a square of a secondary hue and place it on three different primary backgrounds. Explain what happens to the hue of the secondary in terms of brighter, duller, lighter, darker, warmer and cooler. 

Woven Items
See General Information—Presentation of Written Work and Woven Items, above, for additional specifications. Include a completed record sheet with each sample.

M-5 Color and Weave Effect
M-5.a. Define color and weave effect.
M-5.b. Weave a sample gamp showing patterns based on interlacement of dark and light warp and weft (e.g. log cabin, check, houndstooth, etc.).  Thread five variations side by side, a minimum of 4 inches each. Weave each variation as drawn in. Provide complete color and weave draft for one of the treadlings, showing the effect on all threadings. 

M-6 Original Textiles
Design and weave samples of 6 original textiles using a different size (grist) yarn for each sample. Three must be woven on more than four shafts.   Select a different fiber combination for each sample from the list below. 
M-6.a. All cotton
M-6.b. All wool
M-6.c. All silk
M-6.d. All singles yarn
M-6.e. All plied yam
M-6.f. Novelty yarn as the dominant yarn
M-6.g. All synthetic yarn
M-6.h. A combination of yarns 

M-7 Special Techniques
Design and weave a rug of at least 6 square feet on 4 or more shafts.   Incorporate at least three of the following  techniques: pick and pick, meet and separate, cross stripes, spots, soumak and loops based on Ghiordes knots. Use proper rug finishing on warp ends.

M-8 Multiple Layers
Design and weave fabrics for 3 articles using:
M-8.a. Double-width fabric in wool, any color or texture. Finished width should be at least 40 inches wide by 1 yard in length.
M-8.b. Pick-up technique
M-8.c. Loom controlled stitched double cloth (layers attached at regular intervals). 

M-9 Tapestry
Design and weave a flat woven tapestry. Include in your design: curves, diagonals, hatching and straight lines (the latter producing slits to be properly closed when necessary). Minimum size 144 sq. inches. Submit your cartoon/drawing/sketch with your tapestry. 

Create an original woven textile that shows mastery of design and execution.

Join The Guild

We're always welcoming new members. For as little as $40/year, you'll gain access to our member library, equipment rental, new friends to last a lifetime, and so much more.

The Jacquard Study Group is an on-line group with the goal of furthering individual knowledge and increasing participation in jacquard design and weaving. Participants need only be seriously interested in exchanging ideas for the purpose of learning more about jacquard weaving. Suitable topics for newsletter contributions include, but are not limited to, discoveries, new approaches, weaves, references, history, technical problems and/or solutions, to name a few. Topics related to both hand and industrial jacquard weaving are suitable.

The group uses an Internet mailing list to facilitate communication, and a password-protected web site to publish newsletter contributions and other jacquard-related reference materials. Access to the mailing list archives and to web site is available only to study group members.

Study group members must contribute at least one article a year for inclusion in the on-line newsletter, with submission deadlines of November 15 and May 15. Additional contributions are always welcome. Once sufficient newsletter contributions have accumulated, a CD of Jacquard Study Group newsletters is made as backup for the Complex Weavers Library.

Newsletter articles should be submitted in either Portable Document Format (for reading in Adobe Acrobat) or Rich Text Format (for conversion to Portable Document Format). Each page of a newsletter article must include the name of the writer, the title of the article, the date, the page number, and copyright information.

The annual fee for membership in the group is $5 in US funds, renewable each October. This fee covers the cost of printing and preparing copies of newsletters, as well as  backup CD’s, and mailing them to the Complex Weavers Libraries and Archives.

Jacquard Additional Req.:Computer: An Internet mailing list is available for group communication.

Inquiries about joining the Jacquard Study Group should be directed to the Chair, whose email address is above.

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